Nove means nine, the number on the door. Behind it, in the steep lanes of Alfama, is a room of thirty-eight seats that opens at seven in the evening and not before. Every afternoon the pasta is rolled and cut by hand, and by service it is on the table beside a short list of natural wine. An Italian kitchen, in a Portuguese street.

Rua dos Remédios 9, Alfama, Lisbon. Tram 28 passes close by. Dinner only, Tuesday to Saturday.
Every afternoon
Tagliatelle, pici and the day's filled shape: made before the doors open at 19:00.
By the glass or bottle
Cloudy, textured, built for egg pasta.
Served slightly cool, for ragù and cacio e pepe.
Bright bottles for the antipasti.