Osteria · Alfama, Lisbon

Hand-rolled pasta, by candlelight

An Italian room of 38 seats at Rua dos Remédios 9. Dinner only, Tuesday to Saturday — doors open at 19:00.

A plate of hand-cut tagliatelle beside a candle and a glass of orange wine on a dark wooden table

Nove means nine, and nine is the number on the door. Every afternoon, before the lane fills with evening light, the pasta is rolled on a wooden board: semolina, egg yolks, a long knife. At 19:00 we light the candles on thirty-eight seats, and a small Italian kitchen starts dinner inside an old Alfama house of stone and tile.

Nests of fresh tagliatelle dusted with semolina on a wooden board

Rua dos Remédios 9, Alfama. Thirty-eight seats, close together. Dinner only, Tuesday to Saturday.